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posted by ccnyIP on May 20, 2015

I Have been in construction for many years and am now finishing my degree in mechanical engineering. I am truly amazed at reviews of many things and this is one. Some people have given poor reviews of AAC do to obviously poor installation and handling. AAC is a building material! If I got cracked improperly cured bricks and then installed them could I blame bricks?

Then someone is crying about how after using AAC they still needed heating and cooling? Not to say anything truly bad but, what makes anyone think that you can put up a single layer of a material and end the world energy...

posted by pmelton on Apr 30, 2015

Here's a quick explanation of what a hygrothermal assessment can tell you about a moisture situation.

https://www2.buildinggreen.com/blogs/what-hygrothermal-building-assessment

posted by pmelton on Apr 29, 2015

John, I'm sorry to hear about your troubles. Based on my conversation with Peter Yost, our resident building scientist, it sounds like you've done a lot of work that was a good idea anyway, even though it doesn't seem to have solved the particular moisture issue of concern. So that's a great start.

There are building science experts who perform hygrothermal analyses of homes. Most of the specialists who work with moisture control are NOT the same specialists who work with mold remediation. This is how you've ended up in a situation where you've remediated mold twice without...

posted by john.c.lowry on Apr 28, 2015

We bought a house in Hot Springs, Arkansas, in 2010 that has had a continuing issue of excessive moisture readings and moldy smells, primarily in a west and south facing corner. The house is on a slab. We first thought pressure washing created the problem, then a poorly fabricated flagstone patio was a suspect. Uncaulked windows were also an item of interest. We have had two sessions of mold remediation, pulling built-ins and drywall, etc. Both times mold was treated and or the drywall/insulation, etc. was removed. We also removed the flagstone, installed a French drain and...

posted by bates.paul on Apr 9, 2015

Hi-

I reviewed your story on "...

posted by granda on Apr 8, 2015

Hi Alex,
I've been following your experience with the Zehnder unit with interest. By the way, my understanding is that Barry Stephens is brother to Northwest Energy Efficiency Alliance's Charlie Stephens.

Ten years ago we installed a UltimateAir DX200 ERV in our new home in Richmond, VT. It has worked fairly well, though the three motors all needed replacement at around year 5 and there have been issues with the exchange medium ending up where it shouldn't. Also, because our house is so tight the humidity recovery during the winter ended up being more of a problem than a...

posted by joetmail on Apr 4, 2015

Thanks Alex. Replacing the siding is really not an option. Without the opportunity to create a drainage plane I shy away from spray foam in walls (I'm in Atlanta by the way). It's tough to get a Grade I batt installation so I am hoping Spider might avoid the moisture trap problem and give me a little higher R-value.

posted by atwilson on Apr 4, 2015

Joe, This could be somewhat of a problem when the siding needs replacement. Removing the siding will likely damage the insulation, because it will stick to the siding to some extent. Siding is exposed to the weather, so had a shorter lifetime and usually needs replacement before other wall components.

It would be preferable to remove the siding, install a layer of sheathing on the outside of the 2x4s, then create a rain screen with strapping or a mesh product of some sort, then reinstall the siding. If you were going to all that work and you're in a cold climate, you might decide...

posted by joetmail on Apr 4, 2015

I'm doing an interior gut on a 1920s house with siding installed directly onto the 2x4s. Is Spider safe for that application?

posted by atwilson on Mar 25, 2015

Ben, I'm still very happy with the Geospring. It definitely cools off the basement some, and because the floor between the basement and our living area isn't insulated, that means that the our first floor stays cooler than ideal at floor level--unless we add more heat with our wood stove. There were a few times when I noticed the temperature in the basement equipment room dipping a bit below 50°F, but most of the winter it stays around 51° or 52°. If we had kids at home showering every day, the cooling off of the basement might be more of a problem.

There have been a very few times...

posted by ccnyIP on May 20, 2015

I Have been in construction for many years and am now finishing my degree in mechanical engineering. I am truly amazed at reviews of many things and this is one. Some people have given poor reviews of AAC do to obviously poor installation and handling. AAC is a building material! If I got cracked improperly cured bricks and then installed them could I blame bricks?

Then someone is crying about how after using AAC they still needed heating and cooling? Not to say anything truly bad but, what makes anyone think that you can put up a single layer of a material and end the world energy...

posted by pmelton on Apr 30, 2015

Here's a quick explanation of what a hygrothermal assessment can tell you about a moisture situation.

https://www2.buildinggreen.com/blogs/what-hygrothermal-building-assessment

posted by pmelton on Apr 29, 2015

John, I'm sorry to hear about your troubles. Based on my conversation with Peter Yost, our resident building scientist, it sounds like you've done a lot of work that was a good idea anyway, even though it doesn't seem to have solved the particular moisture issue of concern. So that's a great start.

There are building science experts who perform hygrothermal analyses of homes. Most of the specialists who work with moisture control are NOT the same specialists who work with mold remediation. This is how you've ended up in a situation where you've remediated mold twice without...

posted by john.c.lowry on Apr 28, 2015

We bought a house in Hot Springs, Arkansas, in 2010 that has had a continuing issue of excessive moisture readings and moldy smells, primarily in a west and south facing corner. The house is on a slab. We first thought pressure washing created the problem, then a poorly fabricated flagstone patio was a suspect. Uncaulked windows were also an item of interest. We have had two sessions of mold remediation, pulling built-ins and drywall, etc. Both times mold was treated and or the drywall/insulation, etc. was removed. We also removed the flagstone, installed a French drain and...

posted by bates.paul on Apr 9, 2015

Hi-

I reviewed your story on "...

posted by granda on Apr 8, 2015

Hi Alex,
I've been following your experience with the Zehnder unit with interest. By the way, my understanding is that Barry Stephens is brother to Northwest Energy Efficiency Alliance's Charlie Stephens.

Ten years ago we installed a UltimateAir DX200 ERV in our new home in Richmond, VT. It has worked fairly well, though the three motors all needed replacement at around year 5 and there have been issues with the exchange medium ending up where it shouldn't. Also, because our house is so tight the humidity recovery during the winter ended up being more of a problem than a...

posted by joetmail on Apr 4, 2015

Thanks Alex. Replacing the siding is really not an option. Without the opportunity to create a drainage plane I shy away from spray foam in walls (I'm in Atlanta by the way). It's tough to get a Grade I batt installation so I am hoping Spider might avoid the moisture trap problem and give me a little higher R-value.

posted by atwilson on Apr 4, 2015

Joe, This could be somewhat of a problem when the siding needs replacement. Removing the siding will likely damage the insulation, because it will stick to the siding to some extent. Siding is exposed to the weather, so had a shorter lifetime and usually needs replacement before other wall components.

It would be preferable to remove the siding, install a layer of sheathing on the outside of the 2x4s, then create a rain screen with strapping or a mesh product of some sort, then reinstall the siding. If you were going to all that work and you're in a cold climate, you might decide...

posted by joetmail on Apr 4, 2015

I'm doing an interior gut on a 1920s house with siding installed directly onto the 2x4s. Is Spider safe for that application?

posted by atwilson on Mar 25, 2015

Ben, I'm still very happy with the Geospring. It definitely cools off the basement some, and because the floor between the basement and our living area isn't insulated, that means that the our first floor stays cooler than ideal at floor level--unless we add more heat with our wood stove. There were a few times when I noticed the temperature in the basement equipment room dipping a bit below 50°F, but most of the winter it stays around 51° or 52°. If we had kids at home showering every day, the cooling off of the basement might be more of a problem.

There have been a very few times...

Curtainwall and 700 Series Board Insulations
posted by pmelton on Mar 3, 2015

That is good info for our readers, Dagmar. Thanks for posting.

Curtainwall and 700 Series Board Insulations
posted by dagmar.ebaugh on Mar 3, 2015

Hi - You can always find the status of current GREENGUARD Certification in our Sustainable Product Guide at www.ul.com/SPG. The direct link to the search query for Owens Corning GREENGUARD Certified Insulation is http://productguide.ulenvironment.com/SearchResults.aspx?BrandID=367&Cat...

Curtainwall and 700 Series Board Insulations
posted by behrlich on Feb 18, 2015

Melanie, good catch. Looks like this product no longer has Greenguard certification. I've updated the listing.

Curtainwall and 700 Series Board Insulations
posted by behrlich on Feb 18, 2015

Melanie, good catch. Looks like this product no longer has Greenguard certification. I've updated the listing.

Curtainwall and 700 Series Board Insulations
posted by astadtner on Feb 17, 2015

Hello, I am having some difficulty locating documentation on the 700 Series GREENGUARD certification via the Owens Corning website. Is there any documentation to back up their claim? Thanks! Melanie Loftus

Roxul Mineral Wool Insulation Batts
posted by tristan on Jan 2, 2015

Jon, as we wrote in our more detailed EBN review, the binder is formaldehyde. Testing shows that it emits from the product levels less than 0.0135 parts per million (ppm). Average background levels are 0.02 ppm. So in theory someone could react to this, but we are not emphasizing it in our writeup since the data shows it is a very minor point, especially when this insulation is placed...

Roxul Mineral Wool Insulation Batts
posted by jon on Dec 31, 2014

I was surprised that the review of this product didn't mention the urea-extended phenol formaldehyde binder. According to a EBN a Article "Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen, but according to the industry, almost all of the formaldehyde in mineral wool insulation is eliminated in the production process through a chemical reaction and high heat." Roxul claims low emission levels but sensitive individuals could have a reaction and would be cautioned not...

AdvanTech OSB
posted by notes2jill on Sep 24, 2014

Brent thank you!

AdvanTech OSB
posted by behrlich on Sep 24, 2014

Hi Jill,

You raise a good question, but rest assured that Huber is not adding free formaldehyde. I spoke with the company and they are simply accounting for the free formaldehyde that occurs naturally in wood. They should probably make that clearer, though.

Thanks, Brent

AdvanTech OSB
posted by notes2jill on Sep 23, 2014

According to the MSDS (http://www.huberwood.com/assets/user/library/AdvanTech_MSDS_2013.pdf), AdvanTech contains "free formaldehyde." Adding formaldehyde would seem to negate the benefits of using MDI and PF instead of UF, no? Or is it really low-emitting, and what does this mean? Thanks for your great...

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